Kata Tjuta
Making Tracks
When talking about Uluru and making a road trip there is one story that comes to mind. I read a book called Tracks by Robyn Davidson. In the late 70’s she decided to travel from Alice Springs through the desert to the west coast by camel. After a few set backs she had to make some compromises that she wasn’t necessarily happy with in order to realise her dream. Selling her story to National Geographic to raise the money she needed for food and supplies turned her into a sought after celebrity.
One of the key topics in her book is the unfair treatment of Aboriginal people at that time. Robyn became very close with them and very attached to their culture. During her trip she would rely heavily on them and their outback camps she would stop at along the way. Being regularly accompanied by a National Geographic photographer caused friction between her and the Aboriginal people she met.
Its difficult not to make comparisons with Into The Wild but they share many of the same values. Chris McCandless was also eager to escape the confines of modern society and live off the land but with one major difference, Davidson survived to tell her own tale. There is also one other thing worth noting here and that is that both books have been adapted into films with Tracks coming out sometime this year.
I enjoy to read books with themes similar to these. As travellers we all want to leave the restraints of modern society and commit to a dream. I am sure hearing and reading these stories has helped to inspire and motivate me into quitting my job and travel.
Have you read these books? Any suggestions for new books similar to Tracks or Into The Wild? I would love to hear them.
Below you can find the trailer for Tracks
The Anangu
The Anangu are the local Aboriginal tribe of the area that is known as Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. They have tried since they have become co-managers of the park to persuade people not to climb through signs and information. The Anangu started their own company, Anangu Tours Pty Ltd in 1995. It is an entirely owned and operated by Aboriginal people as a vehicle for their involvement in the Australian tourist industry.
Anangu Tours is currently one of the largest employers of Aboriginal people in the area and it aims of providing employment and profits for its local Aboriginal community. Through Anangu Tours you are able to discover the real Uluru with cultural tours that are based on traditions and skills of the local Anangu.
Tjukurpa provides the guiding principles for the management of the park. Tjukurpa is the Aboriginal word for law, environmental history, knowledge, religion and morality, it is the basis of the Anangu values.
“Ananguku Law is held in our head and kurunpa [spirit]. You can’t put Aboriginal Law on paper; it’s the rules that grandfathers and grandmothers and that fathers and mothers gave us to use, that we hold in our hearts and in our heads.”
By working closely with local communities and keeping them involved in the planning and development of sacred sites we are able to preserve culture and traditions. Using local guides and companies can help ensure that the money we spend when travelling reaches the right people and stays in the local community. I was once taught a useful phrase that has stayed with me when travelling.
“Think global, act local.”
Uluru: To Climb or Not
It is an ethical question when considering to climb Uluru and is one of the most controversial activities that take place within the park. Of course once you have travelled so far you will feel the need to climb Uluru but the local Aboriginals would prefer you didn’t.
Others have referred to the climb as the ultimate test of faith and along with tour operators and guidebooks encouraging people to climb they always will. The Anangu (The Local Aboriginals) prefer that tourists would not climb Uluru. The route is considered as sacred and the Anangu feel responsible for the welfare of visitors. Since 1962 more than 30 deaths have been associated with the climb and each year another 30 or more people need to be rescued from the site.
The new message of the Anangu and park management is ‘we never climb’. This new message is one that is communicated with every visitor through a message on their entrance ticket. Some Tour operators have agreed to convey this message as well as Qantas who have prepared a in-flight program that presents the ‘don’t climb’ message.
It has become a political subject in Australia and many high-profile people including the former Deputy Prime Minister and leader of the Conservative Party has apologised for climbing in the past. This may be influencing many visitors as statistics have shown in the last five years that the number of tourists who climb has dropped by a large amount. The climb still remains one of the most common activities and is promoted in almost every tour package.
What do you think? Have you or would you climb Uluru if given the chance?
Uluru
Uluru is also known as Ayers Rock and even ‘The Rock’. Mass tourism to central Australia and Uluru dates back to the 1960s with the number of visitors continues to grow each year. Uluru is managed by the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park which also encompasses Kata Tjuta or the Olgas. This national park is the most visited place in Australia.
Since 1985 Uluru has been handed back to the Anangu (local Aboriginals) in a joint management project with Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. This has allowed the traditional Aboriginal owners to play a central role in the management decisions. This has resulted in some sacred sites that were once open to the public to be closed in respect to Aboriginal law.
Little has changed since Uluru-Kata Tjuta first attracting visitors despite the variety of products offered. Change will need to be accelerated in order to ensure the spiritual values are protected. New products will need to meet the diverse interests of visitors and over time a different group of tourists may be attracted to the area by a spiritual meaning and importance. Despite being on the World Heritage List it is difficult to change visitor’s perspectives and expectations.
Sacred places are not safe from tourists, the tourist track is everywhere. Those tourists that try to tread lightly may be doing harm in other areas such as culture, traditions and spirituality. Sacred sites need to be robust and need to cope with extra stresses, especially if the area attracts a large amount of visitors. It is easy to measure and in some cases prevent the impact that tourists have on an area but how can you do this when it concerns cultural or spiritual values.
For more about nature tourism and the protection of sacred places read another post I wrote on the subject HERE.
Uluru from a distance
Road trippin’ in Australia
While in Australia I travelled as much as possible but still it wasn’t enough. I went from Melbourne to Perth, Adelaide to Darwin, crossing the whole country twice. There was still more to see so I went from Melbourne to Brisbane, then Brisbane to Cairns which unfortunately was cut short at Rockhampton due to extreme floods. Rockhampton was 26m under water for weeks, there was no way round.
I left Australia slightly unfulfilled. I had done as much as I could but still I was missing something. I never made it to Cairns or to the Great Barrier Reef. I would have loved to have travelled the west coast from Perth to Darwin but there just wasn’t enough time. Now there is a reason to return.
This post is an introduction to a series of posts about Australia that will follow. I will share with you my travels, experiences and photographs. They can be used as a guide but also to learn about a country we know very little about. A relatively knew country with a very old history.
If you are thinking about making a road trip in Australia there is a good article to read about which coast to drive. I have always wanted to drive the west coast as it is currently off the beaten track but it looks like that we will change as the east coast gets more popular and crowded.
Further reading:
Nature Tourism
Nature tourism is an increasing segment of the tourism industry which encompasses many activities that centre on the participants engaging with nature. This segment takes place largely in a natural setting with emphasis on understanding and conservation of the natural environment. The places associated with nature tourism has always included forests, lakes, rivers, mountains and the coast, these areas are usually protected as National Parks.
In the U.S.A in the 19th century there was the national park movement where many areas became protected as National Parks or National Monuments, this led to them being heavily visited during the 20th century. Early infrastructure was developed including car parking, trails and visitor centres, this was then adopted by other countries but with national and cultural differences. For example in Scandinavia they have “everyman’s right” which has led to more countryside being available for access whereas in the U.S.A they have strong private property rights.
Generally there is a greater awareness of the environment and its issues that include pollution, deforestation and global warming. Governments and environmental organisations are taking these issues seriously at both a national and international level. People’s interest in these issues has changed accordingly and they want to engage in nature or Ecotourism and partake in activities that have a benefit to the local environment. Due to this increased awareness it has become easier to manage these protected areas as people understand the need for this action.
This has not been the case in Virunga National Park in Congo. Park rangers are armed with guns and willing to give their lives in order to protect the natural environment and the last home of the mountain gorilla on the planet. Virunga is both a National Park and UNESCO heritage site but has been under increasing pressure since oil was found in the park. Large oil companies are able to throw money at a problem until they eventually get their way, if we are not careful we will lose a truly unique place on Earth.
In order to increase nature tourism a high quality environment is needed in order to attract visitors, this results in a reduction in negative effects on the areas and a reduced risk of conflict with local communities. With the popularity of nature tourism increasing it will actively contribute to the conservation of natural and cultural heritage. But if the area is affected by lack of management or over-exploitation, like what is happening in Virunga, it will lose its attractiveness to visitors. It is important for nature tourism development to encourage community involvement to be sustainable, this can be done through local and indigenous communities being included in the planning, development and participation.
Given the increased pressures on the environment as well as the changing social, economic and demographic conditions, nature tourism is a segment that needs to be continually under review. If we as tourists are not mindful about our travel these places may not last for future generations.
Joseph Arthur – Even Tho
The title of my blog, Our Shadows Will Remain, comes from the song Even Tho by Joseph Arthur. The song itself is beautiful but it is the meaning of the lyrics that caught me.
To find where we belong
Our shadows will remain
Even after we are gone
It was that last line, even after we are gone, that caught me. These posts are my shadows, the notes and photographs I have taken will be left even after I am gone. The way I have interpreted the lyrics may vary from person to person, but that’s the great part about lyrics.
Cityscapes
In one of my earlier posts I compared photographing landscapes to cityscapes and which one I preferred, if any. I enjoy photographing the places I travel to and sharing those images with people is also part of why I take these pictures. I recently entered one of my photographs to The Guardian and they used it in one of their articles about Cityscapes from around the world.
If you enjoy sharing you photographs with others then I recommend adding some photographs to The Guardian Witness project.
Our Shadows Will Remain 